FASHION ON FILM

A part of my university degree, studying Fashion Communication and Promotion involves watching a fashion film every two weeks. This is a great way of showing us how fashion can be expressed through a different medium. Not just in photography or a mannequin in a show window. I was initially intrigued at this idea. I have always been deterred from fashion films, as they always seemed utterly pretentious and above their audience. The trailers always made me feel that as a viewer, I must have some knowledge of the fashion industry otherwise I would be completely lost and incapable of enjoying the film to it’s full extent. To a degree, this is true. If you do not know who is speaking, the influence of what they’re saying is lost. But it is not as prominent as I first believed, which was a relief.

Bill Cunningham New York by Richard Press

This highly praised, 2010 documentary follows 85 year old Bill Cunningham, as he cycles around New York photographing those he feels are dressing “different” and who inspire him for his column in the New York Times. The day in the life style film tracks Bill from his tiny apartment in New York, of which he and the other residents of the building are to soon be evicted, to Paris where he is honoured for his efforts to fashion. Immediately, the audience warms to Bill. He lives simply but for the extravagant, dedicating his entire life to fashion. Even admitting on camera that due to his devotion to his work, he has never had time for a romantic relationship - something he does not see as odd. Contributors such as Anna Wintour and David Rockefeller, Wintour exclaiming “we all dress for Bill”, praise this little, frail man we see trawling around Manhattan snapping pictures of the wacky and brave. There are times, I found, when the documentary feels a little invasive. When the cameras are taken into Cunningham’s tiny apartment, compact with huge file cabinets of all his pictures, I felt as if I was pushing into a personal space for the inhabitant’s eyes only. I almost wanted to apologise and leave with my tail between my legs. But overall, this film was incredibly heartwarming. You cheer when Bill accepts his award, and want to offer a hug when New Yorkers shout abuse at the random man taking their picture (thankfully, of which is a rare occurrence). I adored this film, and would recommend it to anyone as their first fashion film.

Mademoiselle C by Fabien Constant

This 2013 fly on the wall documentary follows Carine Roitfeld, as she steps down as editor-in-chief of french Vogue and moves to New York to begin her own publication, CR Fashion Book. We follow Roitfeld from location to location, enough to leave your head spinning. Her jet set life is well documented and guest speakers are giving her continuous praise. From Tom Ford, who speaks of her as his fashion other half and Linda Evangelista, exclaiming that Roitfled “is Parisian chic”. Unfortunately, I did not warm to this film at all and was praying for it’s end. Mademoiselle C was met with negative reviews and I can see why. There was just no story. Rich, successful woman leaves a successful job to move onto another which goes well. Along the way she is continuously referred to as one of the highest and most respected in fashion. There was no mention of her journey to the top, beckoning the question, “why should I care?”, Roitfeld coming over almost robotic. There were moments of humility and this came from the former Vogue editor’s family. During filming Roitfeld became a grandmother, and scenes of the fashion icon scurrying around showing pictures of her new granddaughter on her phone was touching. The film also providing a moment of humour with Karl Lagerfeld pushing a stroller containing the new arrival, something exceptionally unnatural to the Chanel director. But the humour and humility ended there. Like others, I just found the film too distant and empty. I felt no warmth to Roifeld and it was more a sense of worshipping a fashion hero than an insight into a working woman’s struggle to adapt into a new position and the job it takes to begin a new publication. Everything just fitted into place, with the fashion elite singing Roitfeld’s praises. No hard work was displayed, just a pretty New York skyline. And for me this just isn’t enough.